I love coriander: it's up there with flat parsley as my top herbs. I doggedly grow it every year, but unfailingly it bolts, even when I buy the special "non-bolting" type.
For those not aware of the jargon, bolting simply means that a plant that you are growing for its leaves decides to flower and set seed when what you want it to do is produce copious foliage.
I'm glad to know it's not just me with this problem. I received an email from a couple of fellow veg growers who I met on holiday in Italy. I'd mentioned I was sowing coriander, and they were equally frustrated by the coriander issue.
I've heard countless times that the answer is to keep it moist at all times, but with temperatures soaring this summer and daily plot visits impossible, that's far away from achievable for me. So am I doomed to have to make do with a few feathery leaves of coriander rather than the big bunches I crave? The other answer is successional sowing - a handful of seed sown every fortnight or so should mean you always have some coriander that hasn't bolted yet. The trick here is to remember to buy enough seed in the first place.
I'd love to hear your coriander growing tips. I just know one of you has the answer for me out there ...
Hi Jane, nice to see how you are getting along on your plot. With the Corriander, to get it to germinate quicker and increse the time before it starts bolting,when you go to sow it rub the seeds between two bricks and you will find that the seed husk splits open which will allow the seeds inside to germinate much quicker, hope this helps Steve.
Posted by: STEVE | July 17, 2006 at 04:51 AM
I don't know for sure, but I suspect it's more day length sensitive than anything else. As the days start getting shorter, it bolts.
This is only my second year growing it, but I too ordered a special extra bolt resistant variety called Standby via the Seed Saver Exchange from the US. I just noticed it's bolted too.
It's one of my favorite herbs too. I guess it's just going to be one of those things that's only around a few weeks a year.
Posted by: Patrick | July 17, 2006 at 04:12 PM
This delicious herb just can't handle heat. If it's coriander leaves (cilantro) that you want, I'm afraid succession planting is the best answer. It's extra work and space and planning, but I agree that it is a top herb - worth the effort.
Posted by: Judith Schwader | July 17, 2006 at 11:09 PM
Jane - I've found that by planting seeds in autumn rather than spring or summer strengthens the coriander and has less chance of bolting once the heat sets in. I agree with Judith that succession planting is also the key and we plant ours from autumn through winter.
Note: we don't get frosts or snow coverage during winter either.
Posted by: Gardening crash-test dummy | July 19, 2006 at 02:08 PM
I'm new to growing herbs generally.
I bought a corriander plant fromt the store and planted it unaware of this "bolting" issue.
Is there any benefit of it blooming into the lovely flat leaf herb we all desire or will it just remain a flowering plant now?
Posted by: laura | July 09, 2008 at 02:57 PM
hi jane. we have been commercial growers of coriander for 10 years now .... the bolting problem; there is an increase in boting as the summer increase and a decrease in bolting as the summer moves to autumn.There is a point in the autumn if you plant the coriander it will sit for many weeks in NZ it is the 25th of feb till 1st of march.If the coriander is planted early grow it under frost cloth until about half way through its growth take the cover off and it will sit for some time with out bolting..through the middle of summer its not easy to have it in the leaf stage for long we plant every 5 days a new crop.... good luck
Posted by: richard strong | September 11, 2008 at 08:52 AM